Suppose you are one of those people who has been inspired to start road bicycling but don’t really know what it takes to get started. This is the situation I found myself in a couple of years ago even though I had done a fair amount of riding 15 years ago when I was in my mid-thirties. Back then my rides were limited in duration and not my focus. At that time I was much more into weight lifting and used bicycling for aerobic activity to give me a decent overall level of fitness. On re-entry into bicycling I found the world of bicycling was a lot more complicated than I remembered, particularly since I had set a goal to get to a level where I could do 100+ mile rides in a day. This would require more serious training than what I had done in my younger years. In this posting I will share some of the basic things I learned as I got back into bicycling with a focus on selecting a bicycle. In later posts I will share some more detailed thoughts about other topics I introduce here.
The first thing to do is to decide on the type of bicycling you want to do. Is it something you want to do occasionally for recreation or are you looking to use it as a training tool for staying in shape? Do you want to work up to doing endurance rides or even racing? Are you on a budget and need a single bicycle for both riding on the road and also doing light duty off-road riding? Perhaps your priority is on commuting to work. The answers to these questions are important as they will determine things like what type of bike or bikes you should own, how you should train, how much you might need to spend on clothing and accessories, and how much you need to learn about fueling your body during a ride. You may be thinking that this is sounding more complicated than expected and therefore considering just going to the bike store, buying a bike, and then start riding. I encourage you to take the time to learn a little so that you can make good decisions that will allow you to have the satisfaction that is achieved when you get exactly what you need.
Suppose you decide that you want to get back into bicycling by doing recreational road riding with an occasional ride on smooth bluestone or packed dirt trails with no significant hills. For this you will need a bike with wider tires than what is found on pure road bicycles. It is likely that you will want an upright riding position for comfort given that you will not ride enough to acclimate to the more aggressive position needed for a road bike. You may also want a wider padded seat that is more comfortable to the occasional rider. All of these things will point you towards buying a type of bicycle often referred to as a “commuter” bicycle.
If the trails you sometimes ride are a bit bumpy, you may go for a “hybrid” bicycle that has a suspension that will cushion the ride while still providing fairly efficient road riding. A “comfort” bike is an option for those who have no concern for performance and just want a bicycle to cruise around on occasionally.
If you decide that you want to use bicycling for fitness with an eye towards doing endurance rides or racing, you will almost certainly want a pure road bicycle. The efficiency of the pure road bicycle for its intended purpose warrants the adaptation required to get used to the riding position and the harder smaller saddle.
Your riding intent will also influence how much you will need to spend on a bicycle and what type of accessories you may want to get for it. A pure commuter and recreational rider will likely want to only spend enough to get a durable bike that has a pleasing look. A rider looking to do a lot of road riding for training purposes will likely be willing to spend a bit more to get a lighter bike that shifts gears more quickly and can cushion road vibration. A commuter or someone who wants to do touring will spend a fair amount of money on accessories to adapt a bike to the task.
At this point, I would like you to take a look at some online information that will give you an overview of some basic information and terminology that you should know. This keeps me from having to repeat it here. Performance Bicycles has a short overview of different bicycle types. You can download it using the following link:
http://www.performancebike.com/images/performance/web/PDFs/08_BuyersGuide_Choosing.pdf . Revolution Cycles provides an excellent overview of factors to consider for road bikes:
http://revolutioncycles.com/page.cfm?pageID=439. For a discussion of hybrids and comfort bikes use this link:
http://revolutioncycles.com/page.cfm?pageID=527. In the following discussion I am assuming you have read the information I refer to above and therefore will be familiar with terminology such as “rings” and “cassette”.
After reading these materials you will likely still be in a quandary about what you should do in selecting a bicycle. Here are a few recommendations to help you choose based on my personal experience and consequent opinions I have formed.
If you are going to do occasional recreational riding on the street, get a basic comfort or commuter bicycle. If the area you ride in is hilly, get one with triple rings so that it has a wide range of gearing, 24 to 30 speeds . If you are riding on relatively flat routes you can get by with fewer speeds. You should not need to spend more than $500 to $600 to get a decent new bike. A used bike would cost perhaps half that, but you will need to learn a lot more in order to make a good decision about a used bike.
If you are going to do both recreational road riding and occasional mild off-road riding, get a hybrid triple with 24 to 30 speeds. You should not need to spend more than $500 or so to get a decent bike for this purpose. Hybrids can be adapted to handle different usages by changing a couple of things about the bike. For street riding, locking the front suspension (if your hybrid allows this) and using a narrower street tire will reduce rolling friction and preserve momentum on the street and allow you to ride faster. For off-road riding you will want to have the suspension unlocked and have the right tires for the surface conditions you will be riding over. When riding on sandy or gravel surfaces with an occasional mud puddle or creek crossing, you will want to put on a tire meant for off-road use. I have a set of Michelin tires that have tread similar to a snow tire. They work very well for gravel roads and fire roads even in wet conditions. Deep sand and mud will require a knobby tire like you would find on a mountain bike.
For the rider who is going to do a lot of road riding for training purposes, a pure road bike fits the bill. I recommend a triple with between 24 and 30 speeds for just about anybody except racers. The bike snobs at the bike shops will often try and push non-racers to get a 20 speed racing bike (two rings, 53/39, up front and 10 cogs on the cassette) due to the benefit of slightly lighter weight and slightly quicker shifting. My experience has been that if you are going to do any riding that involves going up hills of more than a 6% grade for lengths of more than a couple of hundred yards, you are going to want to have the lower gearing that a triple provides. There may come a time when you will be able to pull higher gearing on those hills. Unless you are in good shape already, that will take a while and you may get turned off to bicycling before you reach that point. The bike shop guys may counter my arguments by saying that a “compact” (two rings, 50/34), is a good trade-off between the triple and a bike with the typical 53/39 front rings. I would only consider this if you plan on putting in the time to get into really great shape before taking on significant hill climbing.
If you don't know what a grade is, it is the ratio of altitude gained or loss relative to the distance traveled. A 6% grade therefore indicates a gain in altitude of six feet for every 100 feet of distance traveled. That doesn’t sound like a lot, but I can assure you that if you are out of shape, a 6% grade for a few hundred yards will make for a tough climb even on a triple. Once you are in shape you will be able to handle steeper grades, but the triple will allow you lower gearing that lets you sit on the bike and spin your way up hills that would require you to stand and muscle your way up with the higher gearing of a two ring bike.
If you have not priced bicycles in a while you may be amazed by the range in pricing. My belief is that bicycles follow a similar price curve to many types of things we buy in that price goes up near exponentially in relation to incremental improvements. This means that you can buy a decent bike for $500 to $600, a very good bike for between $1000 to $2000, and an exceptional bike for more than $2000. For people who are casual riders, the differences due to price will only be mildly perceptible. If you fit this profile I do not recommend spending a lot of money on a bike. For racers and hard-core enthusiasts who want to get everything they can out of their bike, the incremental improvements of the most expensive bike they can afford may be worth the additional cost.
Now for a few thoughts on the key differentiators that account for differences in the price of road bicycles. It seems that road bicycle prices from major manufacturers tend to be closely correlated to the following factors: frame material, fork and stay material, and quality of the components. Most manufacturers make one or more series of bikes, with each series sharing a common frame, fork and stay across the series. The differences in prices between the bikes within a series are based on the different levels of component quality. Series with a steel frame, steel forks, steel stays and low-end to mid-level components are at the lowest price levels, from $200 to $600 or so. For a little more the frame, forks and stays will be aluminum. This will bump the price up to as high as $1000 or so. In the $1000 to $2000 price range you will see aluminum framed bikes with carbon fiber forks and stays. These bikes will have mid-level to near high-end components. Bikes with all carbon fiber frames, forks and stays and mid-level to high-end components start at around $1500. Other materials such as titanium may be used at the higher end price levels. Of course there are exceptions to these rules as I have seen high-end steel frame bikes selling for thousands of dollars, but the majority of bikes seem to slot into the levels I describe here.
The component level used for a particular bike within a series of bikes sharing the same frame, forks and stays accounts for a range in price of hundreds and even thousands of dollars between the low-end version versus the high-end version. My experience has been that mid-level components such as the Shimano Tiagra or Shimano 105 component sets will satisfy all but the most discerning riders who desire the incremental benefits of high-end components.
Perhaps the biggest decision to make once you have decided to buy a road bike is to decide what material you want for the frame, forks and stays. This will be somewhat governed by how much you want to spend. If you want to spend less than $1500, it is going to be to tough to find a new bike with a carbon fiber frame. In my riding experience, I have not noticed any huge advantages of one frame technology versus another. The steel frame bikes have a very smooth ride but are heavy. The aluminum framed bikes with carbon fiber forks and stays are supposedly a little more jarring than the all carbon fiber bikes, but I have a hard time noticing the difference. I went with a bike with a carbon fiber frame mainly because of the cool factor combined with the great price I got for it considering the level of components it came with.
Given the above factors, I believe an enthusiast needs to spend no more than about $1500 for a new bike. For this price a brand new aluminum framed bike can be purchased with carbon fiber forks, carbon fiber stays, and high-end components. The careful shopper may find such a bike with upper mid-level components for as cheap as $495 (as my boss did. He should have been arrested going out the door!) by buying a last year's model at a close-out sales event. My store brand carbon fiber frame bike with high-end Shimano Ultegra components was bought on sale for less than $1500. If you are brand conscious and have to have the very best, you may pay quite a bit more. I leave it to you to do the additional homework to decide if this is warranted. In support of this I encourage you to do your own explorations on the Internet, particularly once you are starting to evaluate specific bicycles. If you do an internet search for reviews of the specific bicycle model, it is highly likely that you will find some online reviews of the bike by a number of people who have owned it. You will quickly discover that most people really like whatever bike they bought. You will need to use some reading between the lines and comparisons across reviews to get a more objective view.
Once you decide to buy a bicycle, I recommend you buy it from a shop that has the expertise to ensure the bike is the proper size for you and that it is then adjusted to fit you. Bicycles have different frame heights and lengths, this affecting how far you have to lean over to reach the handlebars and the position of your legs relative the pedals. This positioning on the bicycle has a substantial impact on comfort and riding efficiency, so getting a properly sized bicycle is important to having satisfaction in your riding.
If you are planning on buying a used bicycle you may want to go to a bicycle shop and get fit to a bicycle by an expert. Use the information you learn from the experience to select a used bicycle that is the correct size.
Here are a few other thoughts about buying a used bicycle. I have not done this but considered it and did a fair amount of looking for used bikes on eBay and Craigslist. What I found is that it is easy to find bicycles in nearly new condition that are priced between half and two thirds of the price for an equivalent new bike. This is very enticing. What held me back from buying used was that at that time I did not know enough about bikes to feel comfortable buying a bike without getting to ride it first. This would be the case for almost any eBay purchase. I was particularly concerned about possibly getting a bike that was not sized properly. For the bikes I saw on Craigslist there was a different problem. The selection was much smaller so it was harder to find a bike that matched up to exactly what I wanted. The combination of these factors, my finding what appeared to be an excellent deal on a new store-brand bicycle, and my eagerness to have a new bike for a fast-approaching century ride led me to buy a new bike.
If I were buying another bike now I would almost certainly buy a used bike. I would not be under time pressure since I already have a couple of decent bikes. This would allow me to wait for the right bike at the right price. I would look for a fairly recent model bike of a brand that I was familiar with. I would look for a lightly used bike. There seem to be a lot of bikes that come on the market that fit this profile as it is common for people to buy bikes thinking they are going to ride a lot and then not follow through. Hopefully this blog will help keep you from being one of these people! Given that the bike under consideration would be a recent model, I would try and test ride a new version of the bike with the same frame size. This could be done at a local bike shop. Some of you may consider this unethical, but I don't think so. A certain percentage of people will end up buying a new bike from the shop after the sales guys have worked them over. The test ride would allow me to make sure the sizing was correct and that I liked the ride qualities. Of course a short test ride will not give enough information to determine how comfortable the bike will be on long rides. An experienced rider should be able to use a test ride to determine that the fit is close enough so that the bike can be tuned to be comfortable on long rides. Based on what I have seen on eBay and Craigslist, I would eventually end up with a bike in new condition and pay about half of the retail price of a new bike.
A couple of other alternatives for paying less are to look for close-out sales or to buy store-brand bikes. My boss was extremely patient and ended up buying a close-out (Felt with aluminum frame, carbon fiber forks and stays and Shimano 105 components) for $495. This bike compares well with other name-brand bikes retailing in the $1200 to $1300 price range. This was an exceptional deal. As stated above, I bought a store-brand bike (Scatante Elite Triple with carbon fiber frame and Shimano Ultegra components) for under $1500 (actually $1465). This bike is feature equivalent to name-brand bikes in the $2600 price range. I test rode both the bike I bought and some name-brand equivalents and was very satisfied by the comparison. I do admit there are visible differences indicating corners were cut to allow the Scatante to be manufactured more cheaply, such as having cables routed externally. I did not feel that these differences affected function and was willing to trade them off given the $1100 savings.
I suspect I am going to get some grief about my statements relative to store brands from people who buy the name-brand bicycles. The most likely point of contention will be about build quality and engineering that produces a more responsive ride and greater durability in the name-brand bikes. There is even some concern that no-name bicycles may be hazardous due to a higher propensity for frame failure. This is certainly a discussion worth having and that will be of value to many people. I do not have the engineering expertise and knowledge necessary to provide advice relative to these factors for any particular brand of bicycle. This leads to the advice that you should do some research about the quality of a bike before buying buying it. Here are a few links that can give you additional insight into the factors related to bicycle manufacturing and quality:
http://joelcory.com/blog/2007/10/25/cheap-carbon-frames/http://bicycledesign.blogspot.com/2006/05/whats-in-your-fork.htmlhttp://allanti.com/page.cfm?PageID=328I hope this posting has given you some of the basics to get you started down the road to selecting a bicycle. In upcoming posts I will discuss topics such as accessories, clothing, training, fueling for longer rides, and participation in organized events. I will also produce a posting with references to resources I have used in learning about bicycling such as websites and books.